唐宋时期龟甲纹的创新与丝绸载体的融合应用研究

Research on the Innovation of Tortoise Shell Patterns and Their Integrated Application on Silk Carriers during the Tang and Song Dynasties

摘要: 龟甲纹作为中国古代传统几何纹样的重要代表，在唐宋时期实现纹样形态与文化寓意的双重创新，且与丝绸载体深度融合，成为当时纺织艺术与社会文化的核心载体。本文以人民出版社2024年出版的《丝绸之路龟甲纹锦织造特征研究》的研究成果为主要参考，解读其与丝绸载体在材质适配、工艺结合、功能表达上的融合逻辑，融入个人对纹样创新与时代语境关联性的思考。研究表明，唐代龟甲纹以“中西合璧”为创新内核，与丝绸载体呈现华丽繁复的融合风格；宋代龟甲纹趋向写实简约，与丝绸工艺适配性更趋精准，二者融合均彰显唐宋纺织技艺水平与时代审美风尚。本文可丰富传统纹样与纺织载体融合的研究体系，为传统纹样当代活化提供历史借鉴。

Abstract: As an important representative of traditional Chinese geometric patterns in ancient times, the tortoiseshell pattern achieved dual innovations in both morphological form and cultural implication during the Tang and Song dynasties. It was deeply integrated with silk as a carrier, becoming a core medium of textile art and social culture at that time. Based mainly on the research findings of A Study on the Weaving Characteristics of Tortoiseshell Pattern Brocades along the Silk Road published by People’s Publishing House in 2024, this paper interprets the integration logic between the pattern and silk carrier in terms of material adaptation, craft combination and functional expression, and incorporates personal reflections on the correlation between pattern innovation and contemporary context. The research shows that the Tang-dynasty tortoiseshell pattern took “blending Chinese and Western elements” as its innovative core, presenting a magnificent and elaborate integration style with silk; the Song-dynasty tortoiseshell pattern tended to be realistic and concise, with a more precise adaptability to silk craftsmanship. The integration of the two in both dynasties reflects the level of textile technology and aesthetic trends of the times. This paper can enrich the research system of the integration between traditional patterns and textile carriers, and provide historical references for the contemporary revitalization of traditional patterns.