道真“三幺台”食俗传承中的文化认同建构——以中国傩城为例

Construction of Cultural Identity in the Inheritance of the “Sanyao Tai” Food Custom in Daozhen—A Case Study of China’s Nuo City

摘要: “三幺台”是仡佬族最具代表性的一种饮食文化，也是仡佬族人民待客的最高食俗礼仪，现如今主要分布在素有“仡佬故里”之称的道真仡佬族苗族自治县以及被誉为“仡佬之源”的务川仡佬族苗族自治县部分地区。“幺台”在仡佬族方言中意为“结束”，顾名思义，“三幺台”就是指一轮宴席要历经酒、茶、饭三道程序才能取得圆满结束。近年来，道真为推动经济发展，在大磏镇文家坝村打造了“中国傩城”(在以下内容里简称为“傩城”)，将“三幺台”作为其核心吸引物，产生了显著经济效应。在此背景下，探索“三幺台”食俗的经济效应背后当地仡佬族及相关群体对“三幺台”食俗的文化认同建构过程，对“三幺台”食俗的活态传承、仡佬族文化的保护与发展具有重要意义。

Abstract: “Sanyao Tai” is the most representative dietary culture of the Gelao ethnic group and also the highest food - custom etiquette for the Gelao people to entertain guests. Currently, it is mainly distributed in Daozhen, known as the “Hometown of the Gelao”, and some areas of Wuchuan, hailed as the “Origin of the Gelao”. “Yao Tai” means “end” in the Gelao dialect. As the name implies, “Sanyao Tai” refers to a banquet that requires three procedures of wine, tea, and rice to come to a successful conclusion. In recent years, to promote economic development, Daozhen has built the “China’s Nuo City” (hereinafter referred to as “Nuo City”) in Wenjiaba Village, Daqian Town, and has taken “Sanyao Tai” as its core attraction, generating significant economic effects. Against this background, exploring the process of cultural identity construction of the local Gelao ethnic group and relevant groups towards the “Sanyao Tai” food custom behind its economic effects is of great significance for the living inheritance of the “Sanyao Tai” food custom, the protection and development of Gelao culture, and the strengthening of the sense of community for the Chinese nation.