皮肤美白机制及美白功效成分的研究进展
Research Progress on Skin Whitening Mechanism and Whitening Components
摘要: 皮肤暗沉、色素沉积等问题长期以来备受人们关注。近几年国内外报道了大量对于皮肤美白机制的研究,同时很多具有美白功效的成分被发现。本文通过阅读整理国内外文献,简述了皮肤美白机制及美白功效成分,对美白产品的开发有一定帮助。
Abstract: Skin dullness, pigmentation and other problems have long attracted people’s attention. In recent years, a large number of studies on skin whitening mechanism have been reported at home and abroad, and many components with whitening effect have been found. Through reading and sorting the domestic and foreign literature, this paper briefly describes the skin whitening mechanism and whitening effect components, which is helpful to the development of whitening products.
文章引用:贾蓝昕, 李晖. 皮肤美白机制及美白功效成分的研究进展[J]. 临床医学进展, 2022, 12(11): 10673-10677. https://doi.org/10.12677/ACM.2022.12111537

参考文献

[1] Chubarova, N. and Zhdanova, Y. (2013) Ultraviolet Resources over Northern Eurasia. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 127, 38-51. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[2] Starner, R.J., et al. (2010) PGE(2) Is a UVR-Inducible Autocrine Factor for Human Melanocytes That Stimulates Tyrosinase Activation. Experimental Dermatology, 19, 682-684. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[3] Kawasaki, K. and Iwasaki, H. (2020) Involvement of Glycogen Metabolism in Circadian Control of UV Resistance in Cyanobacteria. PLOS Genetics, 16, e1009230. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[4] 罗晓君, 蒋咏梅, 章文贤. 黑色素的生成机制、相关疾病及抑制策略概述[J]. 生物学教学, 2021, 46(2): 5-7.
[5] 叶希韵, 朱萍亚. 黑色素的合成与美白产品的研究进展[J]. 华东师范大学学报(自然科学版), 2016(2): 1-8.
[6] Homma, T., et al. (2018) Mela-nosome Degradation in Epidermal Keratinocytes Related to Lysosomal Protease Cathepsin V. Biochemical and Biophys-ical Research Communications, 500, 339-343. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[7] Dilshat, R., Vu, H.N. and Steingrímsson, E. (2021) Epigenetic Regulation during Melanocyte Development and Homeostasis. Experimental Dermatology, 30, 1033-1050. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[8] 李溯, 丁劲松. 黑色素生物合成与酪氨酸酶抑制剂的研究进展[J]. 中南药学, 2013, 11(4): 278-282.
[9] 李韶勇, 等. 黑色素的合成及其常见抑制剂的作用机理[J]. 天津师范大学学报(自然科学版), 2002(1): 17-21.
[10] Feng, D., et al. (2022) The Melanin Inhibitory Effect of Plants and Phytochemi-cals: A Systematic Review. Phytomedicine: International Journal of Phytotherapy and Phytopharmacology, 107, Article ID: 154449. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[11] 王晓华. 活血化瘀法治疗黄褐斑35例[J]. 吉林中医药, 2003(3): 30-31.
[12] Pentland, A.P., et al. (1990) Enhanced Prostaglandin Synthesis after Ultraviolet Injury Is Mediated by Endogenous Histamine Stimulation. A Mechanism for Irradiation Erythema. Journal of Clinical Investigation, 86, 566-574. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef
[13] Pentland, A.P. and Mahoney, M.G. (1990) Keratinocyte Prostaglandin Synthesis Is Enhanced by IL-1. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 94, 43-46. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[14] Bando, T., et al. (2022) Toll Signalling Promotes Blastema Cell Proliferation during Cricket Leg Regeneration via Insect Macrophages. Development, 149, dev199916. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[15] Brown, D.A. (2001) Skin Pigmentation Enhancers. Journal of Photo-chemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 63, 148-161. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef
[16] Xiao, L., Matsubayashi, K. and Miwa, N. (2007) Inhibitory Effect of the Water-Soluble Polymer-Wrapped Derivative of Fullerene on UVA-Induced Melanogenesis via Downregu-lation of Tyrosinase Expression in Human Melanocytes and Skin Tissues. Archives of Dermatological Research, 299, 245-257. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[17] Maeda, K. and Hatao, M. (2004) Involvement of Pho-tooxidation of Melanogenic Precursors in Prolonged Pigmentation Induced by Ultraviolet A. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 122, 503-509. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef
[18] Upadhyay, P.R., et al. (2022) Differential Induction of Reactive Oxygen Species and Expression of Antioxidant Enzymes in Human Melanocytes Correlate with Melanin Con-tent: Implications on the Response to Solar UV and Melanoma Susceptibility. Antioxidants (Basel), 11, Article No. 1204. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[19] Davalli, P., et al. (2016) ROS, Cell Senescence, and Novel Molecular Mechanisms in Aging and Age-Related Diseases. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity, 2016, Article ID: 3565127. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[20] 黄浩, 周秀玲, 吕美云. 还原性谷胱甘肽、抗坏血酸对酪氨酸酶的抑制作用[J]. 中国生化药物杂志, 2009, 30(2): 95-98+102.
[21] 雷铁池, 等. 甘草酸、熊果苷及氢醌对小鼠黑素瘤细胞黑素生成影响的比较研究[J]. 临床皮肤科杂志, 2000(2): 69-72.
[22] 李杨, 祝钧. 中草药植物有效成分在皮肤美白作用机制中的应用[C]//第九届中国化妆品学术研讨会. 2012: 198-202.
[23] 姜玉兰, 朴惠善. 甘草与桑叶等对皮肤美白作用的研究进展[J]. 时珍国医国药, 2006(8): 1572-1574.
[24] Hakozaki, T. (2002) The Effect of Ni-acinamide on Reducing Cutaneous Pigmentation and Suppression of Melanosome Transfer. The British Journal of Der-matology, 147, 20-31. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[25] 陈旭, 牛悦青. 氨甲环酸、烟酰胺和曲酸联合激光治疗黄褐斑的耐受性和有效性: 一项单中心、前瞻性、半脸对照试验[J]. 中华皮肤科杂志, 2022, 55(9): 841.
[26] 胡烨蓓, 宋秀祖. 氨甲环酸治疗黄褐斑的研究进展[J]. 中华皮肤科杂志, 2022, 55(5): 460-462.
[27] 郑洪艳, 等. 天然植物紫外线防护效果研究[C]//第九届中国化妆品学术研讨会. 2012: 128-131.
[28] 陆海燕, 姚培正, 姚学仁. 从天然物中提取防晒成分的研究[J]. 天津科技大学学报, 2004(2): 21-24.
[29] 范瑛, 宋坪. 中医美白祛斑、散结除疤外用古方溯源(一)——唐以前选方用药特点[J]. 中国中西医结合皮肤性病学杂志, 2012, 11(5): 334-336.
[30] 杨健, 金洪键. 四白美白面膜对家兔皮肤微血管血流量的影响[J]. 长春中医药大学学报, 2009, 25(6): 828-829.
[31] 侯安继, 彭施萍, 项荣. 茯苓多糖抗炎作用研究[J]. 中药药理与临床, 2003(3): 15-16.
[32] 张广富, 蒋法兴. 烟酰胺影响人白细胞趋化性的实验研究[J]. 疾病控制杂志, 2003(5): 460-461.
[33] Hiromatsu, Y. (1993) Inhibitory Effects of Nicotinamide on Intercellular Adhesion Molecule-1 Expres-sion on Cultured Human Thyroid Cells. Immunology, 80, 330-332.
[34] Ungerstedt, J.S. (2003) Nicotinamide Is a Po-tent Inhibitor of Proinflammatory Cytokines. Clinical and Experimental Immunology, 131, 48-52. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[35] 张全书, 等. 红没药醇对对乙酰氨基酚致小鼠急性肝损伤的保护作用[J]. 湖北民族学院学报(医学版), 2018, 35(1): 5-7, 10.
[36] 刘莉华, 宛晓春, 李大祥. 黄酮类化合物抗氧化活性构效关系的研究进展(综述) [J]. 安徽农业大学学报, 2002(3): 265-270.