浅析保罗·波烈设计实践中的消费文化观念和身份转向

An Analysis of the Cultural Concept and Identity Turn in Paul Poiret’s Design Practice

摘要: 保罗•波烈作为二十世纪初的第一个吹响时尚号角的时装设计师，他解除了束缚女性身体的紧身胸衣，是树立女性新形象并加以时尚表达的第一人。本文从保罗•波烈本人的设计实践为切入点，以他设计中的营销行为和造型特征作为研究对象进行梳理与分析，对保罗•波烈在服装设计中的消费文化及外观的设计进行细致的研究。本文试图探讨设计师行为展现的消费文化观念如何在消费者中传播以及女性身体如何能在摆脱束缚之后得以身份转向。

Abstract: Paul Poiret was the first fashion designer to blow the trumpet of fashion at the beginning of the twentieth century, and he was the first person to establish a new image of women and express it in fashion by removing the corset that bound women’s bodies. This paper takes Paul Poiret’s design behavior as an entry point, composes and analyzes the marketing behavior and stylistic characteristics of his designs as a research object, and carefully studies Paul Poiret’s design of consumer culture and appearance in clothing design. This paper tries to explore how the concept of consumer culture shown by the designer’s behavior spreads among consumers and how the female body can turn its identity after being freed from bondage and tries to reveal the relationship between costume, art, and theater.