“寂”之美——电影《玩偶》中山本耀司的服装设计

The Beauty of “Sabi”—Yohji Yamamoto’s Costume Design in the Movie “Dolls”

摘要: 本文通过分析电影《玩偶》中山本耀司所设计的服装，探讨其表现出的“寂”之美，从服装造型、质材、色调和意境四个方面进行了剖析。其中，服装造型与“寂之姿”部分探讨了“寂”的外在特征与整体风格；服装质材与“寂之声”部分则介绍了传统日本美学中如何诠释“寂”的声音，以及电影中布料质感与人物命运之间的联系；服装色调与“寂之色”部分则阐述了“寂”的服装色彩在电影中的运用和作用；最后，从服装意境与“寂之心”角度探讨了悲剧与“寂”内核的契合，并指出了山本耀司服装的“寂”之美对当代服装设计的影响。

Abstract: This paper analyzes the clothes designed by Yohji Yamamoto in the movie “Dolls”, and discusses the beauty of “Sabi (さび)”. An analysis was conducted from four aspects: clothing design, material quality, color tone, and artistic conception. Among them, the clothing design and the “Sabi posture” section explores the external characteristics and overall style of “Sabi”; the section on clothing materials and the “sound of Sabi” introduces how to interpret the sound of “Sabi” in traditional Japanese aesthetics, as well as the connection between fabric texture and the fate of characters in movies; the section on clothing tone and “color of Sabi” elaborates on the applica-tion and role of color of “Sabi” in clothing in movies; finally, from the perspective of clothing artistic conception and “heart of Sabi”, this paper probes into the coincidence of tragedy and “Sabi” core, and points out the influence of the “Sabi” beauty of Yohji Yamamoto’s clothing on contemporary clothing design.