民国时期上海新式婚服与洋侨婚服的设计对比研究

A Comparative Study of the Designs of New Wedding Clothes and Foreign Nationals Wedding Clothes in Shanghai during the Republic of China Period

摘要: 为进一步研究民国时期上海地区的婚礼服的设计变化，通过对近代中英文报刊杂志中上海新式婚服和洋侨婚服的照片进行梳理与统计，并对比两者这几十年的流行变化，分析两者的设计变化过程中的异同。以时间脉络为纵轴，根据服装构成要素对男女婚礼服进行阶段性分析。研究表明民国时期上海女性新式婚服在深度西化的道路上由单一向多元发展，男性新式婚服则呈现传统与西化对抗的情况，同时期的女性洋侨婚服表现繁琐向简约的发展趋势，男性洋侨婚服设计呈现装饰向功能与实用转变的倾向。

Abstract: In order to further study the design changes of wedding costumes in Shanghai during the Republic of China period, we combed and counted the photographs of Shanghai’s new-style wedding costumes and foreigner’s wedding costumes in modern Chinese and English newspapers and magazines, and compared the popularity changes of both of them in these decades to analyse the similarities and differences in the process of the design changes of both of them. Taking the time line as the vertical axis, we analyse the stages of men’s and women’s wedding dresses according to the constituent elements of clothing. The study shows that during the Republic of China period, Shanghai women’s new-style wedding dresses developed from single to diversified on the road of deep westernisation, while men’s new-style wedding dresses showed a confrontation between tradition and westernisation; women’s western-style wedding dresses during the same period showed the development trend from cumbersome to simple, while men’s western-style wedding dresses showed the tendency of changing from decoration to function and practicality.