熊果苷作为美白功能因子的研究进展
Advanced Research of Arbutin as a Whitening Functional Factor in Cosmetics
DOI: 10.12677/HJFNS.2019.81005, PDF,   
作者: 周沫希, 严雅丽, 张 英:浙江大学 生物系统工程与食品科学学院,浙江省农产品加工技术研究重点实验室,浙江省食品加工技术与装备工程研究中心,浙江 杭州;姜春鹏, 杨舒琪:苏州绿叶日用品有限公司上海张江博士后工作站,上海
关键词: 熊果苷化妆品功能成分美白因子安全性Arbutin Cosmeceuticals Whitening Factor Safety
摘要: 长期以来,熊果苷作为一种美白、祛斑的功能成分在化妆品行业普遍使用,但近年来对其安全性的质疑引起了业界的广泛关注,有相当一部分企业弃用熊果苷,开始寻找更为安全高效的升级换代产品。本文综述了国内外熊果苷的研发进展,包括不同类型熊果苷的来源及其制备方法、作用效果及美白机理,并重点讨论其细胞毒性和过敏性方面的问题,旨在为化妆品美白功能因子的研究与开发提供借鉴和参考。
Abstract: As a functional component of whitening and freckle removing, arbutin has been widely used in cosmetics for a long time. However, the safety problem has aroused deep concern in this industry recently. A considerable number of enterprises have been abandoning arbutin and beginning to look for safer and more effective alternatives. This review deals with the advanced research of arbutin at home and abroad, including its source and preparation method, effects and whitening mechanism, and focuses on the problems of cytotoxicity and allergy. The purpose of this paper is to provide reference for the R&D of cosmetic whitening factors.
文章引用:周沫希, 严雅丽, 姜春鹏, 杨舒琪, 张英. 熊果苷作为美白功能因子的研究进展[J]. 食品与营养科学, 2019, 8(1): 35-44. https://doi.org/10.12677/HJFNS.2019.81005

参考文献

[1] Matsuda, H., Higashino, M., Nakai, Y., et al. (1996) Studies of Cuticle Drugs from Natural Sources. IV. Inhibitory Effects of Some Arctostaphylos Plants on Melanin Biosynthesis. Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 19, 153-156. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[2] Maeda, K. and Fukuda, M. (1996) Arbutin: Mechanism of Its Depigmenting Action in Human Melanocyte Culture. Journal of Pharmacology & Experimental Therapeutics, 276, 765-769.
[3] Ertam, I., Mutlu, B., Unal, I., et al. (2008) Efficiency of Ellagic Acid and Arbutin in Melasma: A Randomized, Prospective, Open-Label Study. Journal of Dermatology, 35, 570-574. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[4] Polnikorn, N. (2010) Treatment of Refractory Melasma with the MedLite C6 Q-Switched Nd:YAG Laser and Alpha Arbutin: A Prospective Study. Journal of Cutaneous Laser Therapy, 12, 126-131. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[5] Matsuo, Y., Ito, A., Masui, Y., et al. (2015) A Case of Allergic Contact Dermatitis Caused by Arbutin. Contact Dermatitis, 72, 404-405. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[6] Wu, P.R., Xu, H., Chen, X.D., et al. (2008) The Comparative of Arbutine and Glabridin on Regulation of Melanogenesis in B16 Murine Melanoma Cells. Journal of Tissue Engineering and Reconstructive Surgery, 4, 279-281.
[7] Sun, L., Yao, D.L., Yao, D.K., et al. (2016) Research Progress of Alpha Arbutin. Forest By-Product and Speciality in China, No. 3, 87-90.
[8] Yang, X.K., Chen, C.Y., Ou, N., et al. (2017) Technology for Separating and Purifying α-Arbutin from Enzymatic Synthesis. Journal of Huazhong Agricultural University, 36, 57-62.
[9] Kitao, S. and Sekine, H. (1994) α-D-Glucosyl Transfer to Phenolic Compounds by Sucrose phosphorylase from Leuconostoc Mesenteroides and Production of α-Arbutin. Journal of the Agricultural Chemical Society of Japan, 58, 38-42.
[10] Zhu, X., Tian, Y., Zhang, W., et al. (2018) Recent Progress on Biological Production of α-Arbutin. Applied Microbiology & Biotechnology, 102, 8145-8152. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[11] Liu, W.B. (2015) A Method of Producing Arbutin by Biological Fermentation.
[12] Yu, S., Wang, Y., Tian, Y., et al. (2018) Highly Efficient Biosynthesis of α-Arbutin from Hydroquinone by an Amylosucrase from Cellulomonas carboniz. Process Biochemistry, 68, 93-99. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef
[13] Shen, X., Wang, J., Wang, J., et al. (2017) High-Level De Novo Biosynthesis of Arbutin in Engineered Escherichia coli. Metabolic Engineering, 42, 52-58. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[14] Tang, J.Y. and Peng, F. (2015) Research Progress of Pharmacological Effects and Ways of Obtaining Resources of Arbutin. Pharmacy Today, No. 9, 673-677.
[15] Pavlović, D.R., Branković, S., Kovačević, N., et al. (2011) Comparative Study of Spasmolytic Properties, Antioxidant Activity and Phenolic Content of Arbutus unedo from Montenegro and Greece. Phytotherapy Research, 25, 749-754. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[16] Cui, T., Nakamura, K., Ma, L., et al. (2005) Analyses of Arbutin and Chlorogenic Acid, the Major Phenolic Constituents in Oriental Pear. Journal of Agricultural & Food Chemistry, 53, 3882-3887. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[17] Regos, I., Urbanella, A. and Treutter, D. (2009) Identification and Quantification of Phenolic Compounds from the Forage Legume Sainfoin (Onobrychis viciifolia). Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 57, 5843-5852. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[18] Inomata, S., Yokoyama, M., Seto, S., et al. (1991) High-Level Production of Arbutin from Hydroquinone in Suspension Cultures of Catharanthus roseus, Plant Cells. Applied Microbiology & Biotechnology, 36, 315-319. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef
[19] Kwiecień, I., Szopa, A., Madej, K., et al. (2013) Arbutin Production via Biotransformation of Hydroquinone in In Vitro Cultures of Aronia Melanocarpa (Michx.) Elliott. Acta Biochimica Polonica, 60, 865-870.
[20] Peng, F. (2012) Studies on the Bio-Synthesis Technology of Arbutin by Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi Hairy Roots. Shaanxi University of Science and Technology, Xi’an.
[21] Tang, J., Luo, Y., Peng, F., et al. (2017) Study on Biotransformation of Arbutin by Hydroquinone in Hydroponic Leonurus japonicus. Journal of Chinese Medicinal Materials, 40, 42-45.
[22] Zong, F., Yao, X. and Wang, H. (2013) The Synthesis of β-Arbutin. Zhejiang Chemical Industry, 44, 10-14.
[23] Chen, F., Chen, Y. and Zhang, Y. (2016) The Synthesis of β-Arbutin. Zhejiang Chemical Industry, 47, 29-31.
[24] Hamed, S.H. (2004) Efficacy and Mechanism of Action of a New Tyrosinase Inhibitory Agent. University of Cincinnati, Cincinnati.
[25] Liu, Y., Wang, Q., Yi, C., et al. (2014) Synthesis of Deoxyarbutin. Fine Chemical, 31, 1413-1416.
[26] Nitzan, E., Pfaltzgraff, E.R., Labosky, P.A., et al. (2013) Neural Crest and Schwann Cell Progenitor-Derived Melanocytes Are Two Spatially Segregated Populations Similarly Regulated by Foxd3. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America, 110, 12709-12714. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[27] Inoue, Y., Hasegawa, S., Yamada, T., et al. (2013) Analysis of the Effects of Hydroquinone and Arbutin on the Differentiation of Melanocytes. Biological & Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 36, 1722-1730. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[28] Braasch, I., Schartl, M. and Volff, J.N. (2007) Evolution of Pigment Synthesis Pathways by Gene and Genome Duplication in Fish. BMC Evolutionary Biology, 7, 74. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[29] Lu, B., Luo, Y., Chen, C., et al. (2015) Research of Arbutin Inhibits Melanin Synthesis in Zebrafish Embryos. Journal of Hunan University of Science and Technology (Natural Science Edition), 30, 116-120.
[30] Chakraborty, A.K., Funasaka, Y., Komoto, M., et al. (1998) Effect of Arbutin on Melanogenic Proteins in Human Melanocytes. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research, 11, 206-212. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[31] Song, Q., Li, W., Shen, G., et al. (2004) Bio-Efficacy of Arbutin on Epidermatic Melanocytes in Vitro. Journal of Ningxia Medical College, 26, 313-316.
[32] Lim, Y.J., Lee, E.H., Kang, T.H., et al. (2009) Inhibitory Effects of Arbutin on Melanin Biosynthesis of Alpha-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone-Induced Hyperpigmentation in Cultured Brownish Guinea Pig Skin Tissues. Archives of Pharmacal Research, 32, 367-373. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[33] Song, K., Qiu, L., Huang, H., et al. (2003) The Inhibitory Effect of Tyrosinase by Arbutin as Cosmetic Additive. Journal of Xiamen University (Natural Science), 42, 791-794.
[34] Zhang, C., Yin, H. and Wang, M. (2005) Inhibition Effects of Some Active Materials on the Tyrosinase Activity and Comparison of Their Toxicity in Vitro. Chinese Journal of Biochemical Pharmaceutics, 26, 72-75.
[35] Guo, J., Zhang, W., Ding, L., et al. (2012) Safety and Decoloration of the Arbutin Preparations on the Skin of Guinea Pigs. Journal of Ningxia Medical University, 34, 592-595.
[36] Funayama, M., Arakawa, H., Yamamoto, R., et al. (1995) Effects of α- and β-Arbutin on Activity of Tyrosinases from Mushroom and Mouse Melanoma. Journal of the Agricultural Chemical Society of Japan, 59, 143-144.
[37] Chawla, S., Kvalnes, K., Delong, M.A., et al. (2012) DeoxyArbutin and Its Derivatives Inhibit Tyrosinase Activity and Melanin Synthesis without Inducing Reactive Oxygen Species or Apoptosis. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 11, 28-34.
[38] Numata, T., Tobita, R., Tsuboi, R., et al. (2016) Contact Dermatitis Caused by Arbutin Contained in Skin-Whitening Cosmetics. Contact Dermatitis, 75, 187-188. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[39] Oiso, N., Tatebayashi, M., Hoshiyama, Y., et al. (2017) Allergic Contact Dermatitis Caused by Arbutin and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate in Skin-Lightening Products. Contact Dermatitis, 77, 51-53. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[40] Degen, G.H. (2016) Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)-Opinion on the Safety of the Use of α-Arbutin in Cosmetic Products. Regulatory Toxicology & Pharmacology, 74, 75-76.
[41] Degen, G.H. (2015) Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)-Opinion on the Safety of the Use of β-Arbutin in Cosmetic Products. Regulatory Toxicology & Pharmacology, 73, 388-389.
[42] Zhang, F., Huang, X., Cao, J., et al. (2014) Study of Arbutin Genetic Toxicity and Metabolic Transformation of Arbutin by Human Skin-Derived Bacteria. Chinese Pharmaceutical Affairs, 28, 375-380.
[43] Blaut, M., Braune, A., Wunderlich, S., et al. (2006) Mutagenicity of Arbutin in Mammalian Cells after Activation by Human Intestinal Bacteria. Food & Chemical Toxicology, 44, 1940-1947. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[44] Ai, K., Liang, J., Zeng, C., et al. (1999) The Determination of Content and Stability of Arbutin in Disposing Spot Cream by FT-Infrared Spectrun. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, No. 2, 45-47.
[45] Liu, C., Wu, P., Liang, G., et al. (2015) Progress in Development of Three Kinds of Arbutin Product. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, No. 9, 529-532.
[46] Liu, Y. (2012) Study on the Whitening Mechanism, Compatibility and Stability of α-Arbutin. Beijing University of Chemical Technology, Beijing.
[47] Yang, C.H., Chen, Y.S., Lai, J.S., et al. (2010) Determination of the Thermodegradation of Deoxyarbutin in Aqueous Solution by High Performance Liquid Chromatography. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 11, 3977-3987. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[48] Lin, C.C., Yang, C.H., Chang, N.F., et al. (2011) Study on the Stability of Deoxyarbutin in an Anhydrous Emulsion System. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 12, 5946-5954. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[49] Yang, C.H., Chang, N.F., Chen, Y.S., et al. (2013) Comparative Study on the Photostability of Arbutin and Deoxy Arbutin: Sensitivity to Ultraviolet Radiation and Enhanced Photostability by the Water-Soluble Sunscreen, Benzophenone-4. Journal of the Agricultural Chemical Society of Japan, 77, 1127-1130. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[50] Migas, P. and Krauze-Baranowska, M. (2015) The Significance of Arbutin and Its Derivatives in Therapy and Cosmetics. Phytochemistry Letters, 13, 35-40. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef
[51] Hong, J.H., Chen, H.J., Xiang, S.J., et al. (2018) Capsaicin Reverses the Inhibitory Effect of Licochalcone A/β-Arbutin on Tyrosinase Expression in b16 Mouse Melanoma Cells. Pharmacognosy Magazine, 14, 110-115. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[52] Sun, J., Feng, Z., Hou, X., et al. (2017) Synthesis, Characterization and Whitening Activity of Arbutin Analogues. Chinese Journal of Medicinal Chemistry, No. 4, 267-273.
[53] Ke, L., Xu, K., Bessarab, D., et al. (2016) Arbutin Encapsulated Micelles Improved Transdermal Delivery and Suppression of Cellular Melanin Production. BMC Research Notes, 9, 1-6.
[54] Wu, P. and Peng, X. (2009) Study on Transdermal Penetration System of Arbutin Flexible Liposome. Clinical Medical Engineering, 16, 8-10.
[55] Ayumi, N.S., Sahudin, S., Hussain, Z., et al. (2018) Polymeric Nanoparticles for Topical Delivery of Alpha and Beta Arbutin: Preparation and Characterization. Drug Delivery & Translational Research, No. 4, 1-15. [Google Scholar] [CrossRef] [PubMed]
[56] Wang, N., Tang, W., Chu, B., et al. (2016) Study on Whitening Efficacy of Bamboo Leaf Flavonoids Nanoparticles Based on B16 Melanoma Cell Evaluation System. Fine Chemical, 33, 1375-1380.
[57] Zhang, Y. and Wang, N. (2016) The BLF/TP/ε-PL Nanoparticles with Whitening Effect and Preparation Method Thereof. CN 201610380410.2.
[58] Zhang, Y., Zhang, Y. and Zhou, M. (2018) Preparation Methods and Application of the Nanoparticle Taking High Purity C-Glycoside Flavonoids of Bamboo Leaf as Leading Material. CN 201810898507.1.